Day 13 - Melide to Santiago de Compostela

Our last day into Santiago de Compostela and the route is very hilly and around 37 miles long. Although Santiago is 640 ft lower in elevation than Melide the route is blocked by a series of ridges (around 14 in number plus some small hills) which means despite the net descent there is 2,750 feet of climbing. The day was hot and the road wound its way in curves up the ridge sides. The countryside is a mix of Eucalypus forest and cornfields with more small towns than in the mountains. Now we were approaching Santiago there was a much greater density of foot pilgrims making their way towards the city. This is because you only have to walk 100km or more to receive a Compostela (certificate of pilgrimage) from the Cathedral  pilgrim office. As a result many start from the towns close to Santiago, but distant enough to meet the criterium,  especially school parties which had started to appear in greater numbers the day before. 

A typical road winding up a ridge line. The trees make it difficult to know how many bends to the top. On the bigger climbs the road has two uphill lanes and you know it is close to the top when arrows start to indicate the two lanes are returning to a single lane. 

 



We took only one beer stop. Note how many pilgrims. The 1906 beer was very good and quite strong at 6.5%. 



A typical view of a line of pilgrim making their way uphill on the path on the side of the road. 



Close to Santiago, and much to Derek’s disapproval, I took the road up the very steep Monte de Gozo (Hill of Joy). It isthe place where traditionally pilgrims got their first views of the three spires of the Cathedral and the finish. It is 370 metres (1,210 ft) high, the last hill, and by tradition they cry out in joy at finally seeing the end of their path. It has a great statue (see the picture) which I had never seen as I had declined the climb on my two previous Caminos. I assumed the monument was on the marked pilgrim route - but it wasn’t and I still haven’t seen it! A further attempt will be made before we return. 

We descended the hill and entered the city. It is very busy and we walked our cycles through the narrow streets, past magnificent buildings, to the Praza do Obradoro - the main square of old Santiago - and our final stop on our cycle. We posed for a photo before the magnificent Portico da Gloria - the main facade and entrance to the Catherdral - which forms one side of the square. We checked in our hotel, the 15th Century

Hostal dos Reis Católicos which forms another side of the square, showered and got a drink. That’s it! Except there will be one further day, an epilogue, visiting the end of the world on Friday.